The 2025 GPHG: Breguet's Triumph and the Watch World's Grand Celebration
Imagine a night where the most exquisite timepieces battle for glory, and one brand emerges as the undisputed champion. That's exactly what happened at the 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the Oscars of the watchmaking world. But here's where it gets controversial: while Breguet's Classique Souscription 2025 claimed the coveted Aiguille d'Or, the event itself is not without its critics. Is the GPHG truly the ultimate showcase of horological excellence, or does it fall short in representing the entire industry? Let's dive in.
The GPHG, held at the historic Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva, is a dazzling celebration of watchmaking mastery. Yet, it's no secret that some of the biggest names, like Patek Philippe and Rolex, are notably absent. And this is the part most people miss: the Swatch Group and many Richemont brands also keep their distance. But does this diminish the achievements of the winners? Absolutely not. Each nominee and victor has proven their mettle in fiercely competitive categories, earning the respect of their peers.
Breguet's Historic Win
In a year marking its 250th anniversary, Breguet's Classique Souscription 2025 stole the spotlight, blending tradition and innovation seamlessly. CEO Gregory Kissling's acceptance speech paid homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand's founder, and highlighted the collective spirit driving Breguet forward. But here's a thought: does this win solidify Breguet's legacy, or does it simply capitalize on a milestone anniversary? Weigh in below!
Highlights from the Night
- Time Only: Daniel Roth's Extra Plat Rose Gold won hearts with its simplicity, proving that elegance doesn't need complexity. Is this a return to basics, or just a passing trend?
- Men's: Urban Jürgensen's UJ-2 Double Wheel Natural Escapement stood out for its technical prowess and timeless design. But with heavy competition, was this win deserved?
- Men's Complication: Bovet 1822's Récital 30 revolutionized world-time watches with its practical approach to Daylight Saving Time. Is this the future of travel watches?
- Ladies': Gérald Genta's Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal, inspired by a sea urchin, showcased bold design. But is it too avant-garde for the average collector?
- Ladies' Complication: Chopard's Imperiale Four Seasons charmed with its romantic seasonal display. Is this a gimmick or a genuine innovation?
- Iconic: Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar impressed with its new movement, but is it truly iconic, or just a well-executed update?
- Tourbillon: Bvlgari's Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, at just 1.85mm thick, is a marvel. But is it wearable, or just a technical showcase?
- Chronograph: Angelus's Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold captivated enthusiasts. Is this the chronograph of the year?
- Sports: Chopard's Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF combined lightweight materials with high-frequency movement. Is this the future of sports watches?
- Jewellery: Dior's La D de Dior Buisson Couture dazzled with its intricate jewelry setting. Is this a watch or a piece of art?
- Petite Aiguille: M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.2 Green offered exceptional value. Is this the best watch under CHF 10,000?
- Challenge: Dennison's Natural Stone Tiger Eye in Gold proved that affordability and style can coexist. Is quartz making a comeback?
- Mechanical Exception: Greubel Forsey's Nano Foudroyante packed multiple complications into a slim case. Is this the ultimate mechanical marvel?
The Farewell and the Future
The evening also marked the end of Nick Foulkes' tenure as GPHG jury president, a role that shapes the industry's perception of excellence. As we celebrate this year's winners, we're left with a question: What does the future hold for the GPHG? Will it evolve to include more brands, or will it remain an exclusive club? And what does this mean for the watchmaking industry as a whole?
Your Turn
What's your take on the 2025 GPHG? Did Breguet deserve the Aiguille d'Or? Which watch should have won but didn't? Share your thoughts in the comments—let's spark a conversation that's as timeless as the watches themselves.
